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Cooking with Karl

The Summer of Ribs: Part 2 of 4

Pork ribs reflect America's diverse cultural roots and barbecue traditions

Karl Gerhard smiling in a promotional image for his cooking column.

The baby back ribs I cooked after writing last week's column were spectacular.

I used the 3-1-1 method described in the column, but instead of traditional seasonings, I went with a Cuban-style marinade I picked up at the Medina Square Farmers Market. I marinated the ribs for an hour before cooking, then added a bit of Dizzy Pig's Jamaican Firewalk rub to keep the island theme going. After three hours of smoke, I used fresh-squeezed lime juice and a touch of honey as the braising liquid during the one-hour wrapped stage. They weren't the traditional, sugary, tomato-based ribs that most folks around here are accustomed to, but they were absolutely delicious.

In Part 2 of my four-part series, I wanted to discuss the cultural importance of ribs as we approach America's 250th birthday.

Barbecue ribs are a deeply rooted ritual that represents the ultimate American comfort food and a staple of summer cookouts, holidays and community gatherings. American barbecue is a blend of Indigenous pit-cooking methods, European slow-roasting techniques and African culinary traditions. Barbecue ribs truly tell the story of America's diverse cultural roots.

Barbecue also carries strong regional identities. From the sweet, tomato-based ribs of Memphis and dry-rubbed styles throughout the South to the simply seasoned, post oak- or mesquite-smoked ribs of Texas, each variation reflects local history, culture and ingredients.

The beauty of barbecue, especially pork ribs, is that you can borrow from the past using tried-and-true techniques, then put your own spin on things to create something new every time. You can have a lot of fun with ribs, and experimentation should be part of the journey.

My own barbecue journey began during my early years in Cincinnati. Fresh out of college, I met my future wife, who invited me to her apartment for dinner. She made a slab of saucy, beer-braised ribs in the oven that were simply perfect. I had never tasted ribs that good before. I figured that if I wanted to keep up with her, I had better elevate my own cooking game.

Every Saturday morning, I shopped at Cincinnati's Findlay Market, where I talked meats and barbecue techniques with an old Argentine butcher who specialized in beef, several old-school German butchers who dealt exclusively in pork and a handful of others who were generous enough to share their secrets.

My favorite memory from those days is a warm, sunny Saturday in early spring when I returned from the market with two of the thickest slabs of baby back ribs you've ever seen, purchased from the German butchers. In the side alley of the four-story duplex where we lived, I cooked them low and slow on a Weber kettle over indirect charcoal, using the mopping and sopping techniques taught to me by the Argentine butcher.

After slicing the ribs, I finished them with a smear of "La Junta" sauce – a mixture of jalapenos, onions and garlic slowly simmered in olive oil, then reduced with Burgundy wine and heavy cream. Those ribs, paired with that sauce, converted our next-door neighbor from a vegetarian into a meat eater. After enduring the incredible aromas all day, she simply couldn't resist. She later went on to become one of Cincinnati's most beloved chefs.

Karl Gerhard is a culinary and local dining scene columnist from Medina. He can be reached at Karl@MedinaWeeklyNews.com
Karl Gerhard is a culinary and local dining scene columnist from Medina. He can be reached at Karl@MedinaWeeklyNews.com

There are countless ways to cook ribs, and they can all be great if you put time, love and attention into the process. Enjoy the journey!

As always, I urge you to eat fresh, dine local and be happy!