Hot and sour soup can satisfy a craving for spicy food

It seems there are many chili heads among readers of We Ate Well and Cheaply. I’ve received many comments about my recent spicy food column, which underscores my point: It isn’t easy to get area eateries to make something spicy enough. In their defense, I’m sure restaurants quickly tire of making something spicy at a diner’s request, only to have it returned to the kitchen for being too hot. While having dinner at a local Mexican restaurant a few years ago, I asked for the off-the-menu salsa I knew they offered. The next time the waiter returned, the couple in the booth behind me asked for the same thing. Out it came, and it didn’t take long for the wheezing and coughing to start. “That’s nuts,” I heard the fellow say. “Who could eat that?” So I understand if kitchen staff is cautious. An Indian place I know of spells it out on the menu, with levels of spice ranging from mild to “Indian Hot,“ meaning only a New Delhi native should dare to take it on. What chef is going to risk springing seriously spicy food on some guy in the middle of Amish Country, home of family-style rib-sticking cuisine? Which leaves us with making our spicy dishes at home, an option which works out pretty well. It’s not just a matter of heat, of course. And you need different sources of heat to achieve different flavors. A dried chili or adobo paste, based on chilies which have been roasted to extract their heat, works well with Mexican or Central American dishes. If you want spicy Thai or Chinese food, you’ll probably want to start experimenting with brands of garlic and red chili paste. There’s also the much-heralded Sriracha sauce, which has a large and devoted following. Still, the other flavors you add will either punch up or mellow out the flavor blend of a spicy dish. Onions, garlic, ginger, cumin, cloves and other flavors will change the result subtly and in differing ways. Here is a spicy Chinese soup that comes together quickly and easily. Adjust the heat as you like, tasting as you go. This is usually made with roast pork, but I keep a few pork chops in the freezer for just this purpose when I don’t want to wait around for leftover pork from another dish.Prep hint: peel ginger with a teaspoon. HOT AND SOUR SOUPServes four.4 cups unsalted chicken stock, canned or your own1 tablespoon soy sauce4 dried mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes and chopped2 tablespoons white vinegar1 piece fresh ginger about the size of the end of your little finger, peeled and grated. One clove garlic, peeled and minced1/4 pound lean pork, cut into small dice1/2 teaspoon pepper3 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in three tablespoons water2 eggs, beatenGarlic and red chili paste, to tasteOptional: Bamboo shoots, sliced thin lengthwiseTofu, cubedSliced scallions for garnishHeat the chicken stock over medium heat. Add the pork, soy sauce, mushrooms, vinegar, ginger, garlic and pepper. Stir in the corn starch mixture to thicken. Add chili paste to your desired hotness. Add the optional ingredients if desired and allow everything to cook for 15 minutes. With the soup at the simmer, stir in the eggs slowly in a thin stream. Wait a half-minute and stir gently. Serve hot.